Panama City Part I or Let’s go to the Mall

Day 94 – Tuesday 29th June — Day 100 – Monday 5th July

So we came at 4:40 in Panama City and it was still dark. The bus station was also a huge mall, a size even rare for Europe. From there, we had also had a fascinating view of the city, while the sun was getting up.

Panama City in the morning from the bus Terminal

As it was six o’clock in the morning we decided to drive to Casco Viejo, the old town, to check one of the hostel. Although we were with our heavy backpacks and pretty tired, we went to explore this neighborhood, It was a great idea, because we had the old town and the view of the skyline for ourselves!

Panorama in the morning

Old town VS. New Town

Isn’t that Hong-Kong?

Old and New

Plaza de Francia

Our original plan was to do Couch Surfing in Panama. We did actually wanted to try in the other Central American countries, but there were too few couch surfers. Even in progressive Panama City there were few options and we found Jeff,  an American who worked in a hostel, and we could have a night for free there. So after a small breakfast, we went with a taxi to the hostel or at least the address of the hostel. The taxi driver did not know it, and let us out in the alleged street Calle 49th. We wandered into the emerging heat for about an hour and asked a half dozen of people. No one could help us…

It is virtually impossible to orient ourselves in Panama using street names. First of all there are almost no road signs. Which is quite often in Central America and works out in small villages like San Pedro, just not in Panama City with almost 2 millions inhabitants. In addition many streets have two names, depending on their mood, one is on the shield and many locals will know only one of the two. Furthermore, there is no real system as in other Latin American cities. There are usually Calles and then depending on the Avenues running east to west or north to south. In Panama City there are Avenidas and Calles, but the system can be applied only partially, changing in every neighborhood it seemed. One hopeless thing to do is to ask people in the streets or in shops. But  no one knew even the next parallel street from where they were working. The best was a university employee who worked in the 49th street. She said that we were so completely wrong and that the street is 55th Calle and that 49 is so much further in the other direction. We found out that people simply specify restaurants or other places to get from A to B. That works, of course, not if you are new in town and so we rely on the taxi drivers, squeeze the one usually too much money, if you are not a native.

We were saved by an iPod touch and the tendency in the city to not put passwords on wireless connections. The hostel Jungla House was great and Jeff , the American couch surfer was definitely a great guy. Typical of Panama CIty, was that half of the hostel guests were in town for business and not just as a backpackers, as in most other places we travel. We also got to know a British, giving massage courses. Prompt, we had a deal for neck, shoulder and head massage, which is very useful for the whole bus travel and the wearing of backpacks.

Panama City is impressive, with its  skyline of skyscrapers, the highest of which is almost 300m. But the old Casco Viejo, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is surprisingly beautiful. Everywhere building are being renovated and becoming new fancy restaurant just next to where most of poor people are living. New skyscrapers shoot into the air and lots SUVs driving through the streets and among the many expensive cars often drive the many taxis and Chickenbuses , which seemed out of place. Panama City has just two million inhabitants, but space for almost 4,  and is a dynamic city of contrasts. However, it is often difficult to move around town on foot, as many sidewalks were missing or simply parked with cars. Likewise, there was no walking culture as in Europe or New York. This may of course be due to the heat, which ruled continuously in the city.

Chickenbusses in Action on Via Espana:

Inside of a courtyard in a poorer part of the old colonial town

One of the three German Bars in town with “Sven-tiger”

One of the many buildings in construction

Here was the beginning a poor part of town, stuck between the new fast growing building and the colonial town.

One of the many cars supporting Germany

Another characteristic is that Panama was in contrast to all other cities we had seen so far, not full with dogs. We saw for the first time many cats, although they were rarely without an owner.

We walked a lot through the city. Among other things, by  slum streets that appeared somewhat less safe. On the first day in Panama City we were warned by three complete strangers on the street, that we should be careful, or just certain areas only. But the police presence is high and the city is compared to most other Latin American cities, very secure. Except in the side streets of the poorer quarters of our somewhat subjective sense of security was very high. One  evening we visited Maja and Jan in this area (near Avenida Central) where they had found a really cheap hostel (15$ a night for a double room with AC and TV, hard to beat!).

We set out to drive to the Panama Canal with them. The Panama Canal and the adjoining museum are certainly a must for any visitors Panama. There is probably no other country that has been so affected by a single building/construction. The Panama Canal and everything connected with it have helped the country to the modest wealth. Many foreigners are in the city in search of business. Banks, malls and fast food chains are examples of the development of the country. The channel is quite interesting and I found out that it was a French engineer (or I guess still pioneer) that started the construction of the canal at the end of the 19th century, but ended up in a total disaster with nearly 22,000 of workers (mainly from the West Indies) dying from either Malaria,Yellow Fever or landslides. The construction was later finished by the Americans in 1914.

(source, Wikipedia)

The Canal, Miraflores Lock

Homemade video, from series of pictures taken during the crossing of a boat (a pic/15 sec)

Otherwise, we used the time to buy things and to seek for a new camera. That we had to give up rather quickly, as prices were still significantly higher than for example in the U.S.. Clothing, however, was quite cheap. There were three huge malls in the city, which was reserved rather for the middle class and the rich, while the Avenida Central pedestrian area was rather for the popular part of Panama. Occasionally, however, were found throughout the city the Kunas, the largest indigenous group in Panama. Their women were wearing traditional dresses and it was then something special if we could discover in a huge mall a few kuna when shopping.

Lost Kunas in the Mall and Avenida Central

Fastfood in the Mall

But not to be forgotten, the world cup was still on. The international game against Argentina, we looked at the hostel.
Actually, we planned only 3-4 nights in Panama, but Lorenz credit card, and a few other little things sent from Germany to the German Embassy in Panama were yet to arrive, after 3 weeks! thankfully for our budget, Charles (the cousin of my friend Marie-Astrid from ESC Rennes) was back in town and could host us.

So we moved after four days of Hostel on Saturday 3th, July to Charles´place. We did not know what to expect, as we just exchange some messages beforehand. When we met him then and he showed us the apartment, we knew that we were really lucky. First, he was really a nice guy and super host and second was the flat, which was near our hostel in the good area of the city (Bella Vista) and after nearly three months Central America really a great surprise. An apartment to Western standards, private rooms and a super kitchen should be our new home. The last highlight was then the pool on the roof of the building on the 23rd floor.

Random crazy German supporter from Panama

Rain, rain, rain… took us two hours instead of 20 minutes to got back.

The rooftop Pool

Panama City Skyline

Panorama

After we were up late Saturday night in the old town, we went on Sunday with Charles and a friend Janett for surfing. We borrowed a board from the day before and around noon we went down to the coast. Once there we then made our first attempts. While I was not very successful with the board, Lorenz succeeded in going to the end of the day to stand a few times on the board and a bit appropriate for beginners to ride waves. In any case, a great experience and also damn exhausting.

Janett, Emilie, Lorenz and Charles in the old town

Lorenz surfing or at least carrying the board

Mmm it’s none of us…

Charles getting to know his board a bit better…

…and not forgetting important values, taboulet on the beach!

In the evening, we were spontaneously invited by a friend of Charles for dinner. He was Spanish, but grew up in Morocco and was French-speaking but was actually more of a Frenchman. Although we were annoyed us a bit because of the upcoming semi-final, we had the finest evening meal with wine and French and Spanish cheese (!!!). These are things that cost a fortune in Panama. So we enjoyed the luxury, otherwise it would probably cost us $ 30. After that we quickly organized a trip to the San Blas islands off the Caribbean coast of Panama. So after a hard day surfing and some last-minute grocery shopping we finally made to bed around midnight. The next morning we left early at 4:00 to drive out of the bed with a jeep to San Blas.